Showing posts with label generator. Show all posts
Showing posts with label generator. Show all posts

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Mini Audio Signal Generator

A small audio test generator is very useful for quickly tracing a signal through an audio unit. Its main purpose is speed rather than refinement. A single sine-wave signal of about 1 kHz is normally all that is needed: distortion is not terribly important. It is, however, important that the unit does not draw too high a current. The generator described meets these modest requirements.

It uses standard components, produces a signal of 899 Hz at an output level of 1 V r.m.s. and draws a current of only 20 µA. In theory, the low current drain would give a 9 V battery a life of 25,000 hours. The circuit is a traditional Wien bridge oscillator based on a Type TLC271 op amp. The frequency determining bridge is formed by C1, C2 and R1–R4. The two inputs of the op amp are held at half the supply voltage by dividers R3-R4 and R5-R6 respectively.

Circuit diagram:


Resistors R5 and R6 also form part of the feedback loop. The amplification is set to about ´3 with P1. Diodes D1 and D2 are peak limiters. Since the limiting is based on the non-linearity of the diodes, there is a certain amount of distortion. At the nominal output voltage of 1 V r.m.s., the distortion is about 10%. This is, however, of no consequence in fast tests.

Nevertheless, if 10% is considered too high, it may be improved appreciably by linking pin 8 of IC1 to ground. This increases the current drain of the circuit to 640 µA, but the distortion is down to 0.7%, provided the circuit is adjusted properly. If a distortion meter or similar is not available, simply adjust the output to 1 V r.m.s. Since the distortion of the unit is not measured in hundredths of a per cent, C1 and C2 may be ceramic types without much detriment.
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Friday, November 7, 2014

Mini High Voltage Generator Circuit

Here’s a project that could be useful this summer on the beach, to stop anyone touching your things left on your beach towel while you’ve gone swimming; you might equally well use it at the office or workshop when you go back to work. In a very small space, and powered by simple primary cells or rechargeable batteries, the proposed circuit generates a low-energy, high voltage of the order of around 200 to 400 V, harmless to humans, of course, but still able to give a quite nasty ‘poke’ to anyone who touches it.

Quite apart from this practical aspect, this project will also prove instructional for younger hobbyists, enabling them to discover a circuit that all the ‘oldies’ who’ve worked in radio, and having enjoyed valve technology in particular, are bound to be familiar with. As the circuit diagram shows, the project is extremely simple, as it contains only a single active element, and then it’s only a fairly ordinary transistor. As shown here, it operates as a low-frequency oscillator, making it possible to convert the battery’s DC voltage into an AC voltage that can be stepped up via the transformer.

Using a centre-tapped transformer as here makes it possible to build a ‘Hartley’ oscillator around transistor T1, which as we have indicated above was used a great deal in radio in that distant era when valves reigned supreme and these was no sign of silicon taking over and turning most electronics into ‘solid state’. The ‘Hartley’ is one of a number of L-C oscillator designs that made it to eternal fame and was named after its invertor, Ralph V.L Hartley (1888-1970). For such an oscillator to work and produce a proper sinewave output, the position of the intermediate tap on the winding used had to be carefully chosen to ensure the proper step-down (voltage reduction) ratio.

Here the step-down is obtained inductively. Here, optimum inductive tapping is not possible since we are using a standard, off-the-shelf transformer. However we’re in luck — as its position in the centre of the winding creates too much feedback, it ensures that the oscillator will always start reliably. However, the excess feedback means that it doesn’t generate sinewaves; indeed, far from it. But that’s not important for this sort of application, and the transformer copes very well with it.

The output voltage may be used directly, via the two current-limiting resistors R2 an R3, which must not under any circum-stances be omitted or modified, as they are what make the circuit safe. You will then get around 200 V peak-to-peak, which is already quite unpleasant to touch. But you can also use a voltage doubler, shown at the bottom right of the figure, which will then produce around 300 V, even more unpleasant to touch. Here too of course, the resistors, now know as R4 and R5, must always be present. The circuit only consumes around a few tens of mA, regardless of whether it is ‘warding off’ someone or not! If you have to use it for long periods, we would however recommend powering it from AAA size Ni-MH batteries in groups of ten in a suitable holder, in order not to ruin you buying dry batteries.

Circuit diagram:
mini-high-voltage-generator-circuit

Warning!
If you build the version without the voltage doubler and measure the output voltage with your multimeter, you’ll see a lower value than stated. This is due to the fact that the waveform is a long way from being a sinewave, and multimeters have trouble interpreting its RMS (root-mean-square) value. However, if you have access to an oscilloscope capable of handling a few hundred volts on its input, you’ll be able to see the true values as stated. If you’re still not convinced, all you need do is touch the output terminals...

To use this project to protect the handle of your beach bag or your attachecase, for example, all you need do is fix to this two small metallic areas, quite close together, each connected to one output terminal of the circuit. Arrange them in such a way that unwanted hands are bound to touch both of them together; the result is guaranteed! Just take care to avoid getting caught in your own trap when you take your bag to turn the circuit off!
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Saturday, October 25, 2014

Simple Melody Generator Circuit Diagram

Here is the simplest melody generator circuit you can make using an IC.The UM66 series are CMOS IC’s designed for using in calling bell, phone and toys. It has a built in ROM programmed for playing music. The device has very low power consumption.Thanks for the CMOS technology.The melody will be available at pin3 of UM66 and here it is amplified by using Q1 to drive the speaker.Resistor R1 limits the base current of Q1 within the safe values.Capacitor C1 is meant for noise suppression.



Parts:

R1 = 4.7K
IC = UM66T
Q1 = 2N2222
C1 = 10uF-16v
S1 = On/Off Switch
B1 = 1.5 - 4.5 Battery
SP = 2R Speaker

Notes:
  • Power supply must be between 1.5V & 4.5V .Do not exceed 4.5 V.
  • Speaker can be driven with external NPN transistor.
  • Melody begins from the first note if power is reseted.
  • Assemble the circuit on a good quality common board.

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Thursday, October 23, 2014

Simple Precision Metronome Pitch generator Circuits Diagram

Precision Metronome & Pitch generator Circuits Diagram

Precision Metronome & Pitch generator Circuits Diagram

Parts:

R1__________1M  1/4W Resistor
R2_________22K  1/4W Resistor
R3__________6K8 1/4W Resistor
R4__________4K7 1/4W Resistor
R5_________47K  1/4W Resistor
R6________100K  1/4W Resistor
R7_________39K  1/4W Resistor
R8_________12K  1/4W Resistor
 
C1_________47pF  63V Ceramic Capacitor
C2_______2-22pF  63V Ceramic Trimmer
C3________470pF  63V Ceramic Capacitor
C4_________10pF  63V Ceramic Capacitor
C5________100nF  63V Polyester Capacitor
C6________220nF  63V Polyester Capacitor
C7_________22µF  25V Electrolytic Capacitor
 
D1-D15___1N4148  75V 150mA Diodes
 
IC1________4060  14 stage ripple counter and oscillator IC
IC2________4082  Dual 4 input AND gate IC
IC3________4520  Dual binary up-counter IC
IC4________4518  Dual BCD up-counter IC
IC5________4046  Micropower Phase-locked Loop IC
IC6________4040  12 stage ripple counter IC
 
Q1________BC337  45V 800mA NPN Transistor
 
XTAL______2.4576 MHz Miniature Quartz crystal
 
SW1__________BCD Miniature Thumbwheel Switch (units)
SW2__________BCD Miniature Thumbwheel Switch (tens)
SW3__________BCD Miniature Thumbwheel Switch (hundreds)
SW4_________SPST Slider Switch (On-off)
SW5_________SPDT Slider Switch (Metronome-Pitch)
 
SPKR_______8 Ohm, 50 mm. Loudspeaker
 
B1_________9V PP3 Battery
 
Clip for 9V PP3 Battery
 

Circuit operation:

CMos IC1 and IC2B quad AND gate form a 2.4576 MHz crystal oscillator plus a 2400 times divider. IC3A provides further division by 16, delivering a 64 Hz stable frequency square wave. This frequency is multiplied (by means of Phase Locked Loop IC5, double decade divider IC4 and IC3B 4 bit binary divider) by the number set by three miniature BCD thumbwheel switches SW1, SW2 and SW3: units, tens and hundreds respectively.

Connecting, by means of SW5, Q1 base to pin 2 of IC6, we obtain (after a 64 times division) the same frequency set by thumbwheel switches with quartz precision, and no need for a scale indicator.
Volume regulation of the pitch generator is obtained trimming resistor R5. In the same way, with SW5 set to metronome, the small speaker reproduces the frequency set by thumbwheel switches but divided by 3840, thus obtaining beats per minute ratio.
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Wednesday, October 22, 2014

How to Make a Frequency Generator

How to Make a Frequency Generator. On cloud busters Fredbuster created a wonder tutorial for getting started and building your own Zapper. Fredbusters Tutorial in PDF-Based off his design here is how I made my frequency generator.

Frequency Generator Circuit Diagram



Parts Needed


1 Project box with PC board included,
1 Compositor 1 micro farad, C2, I like the un-polarized because it allows you not to worry about positive an negative sides. If you do get one with a longer leg thats the positive, see schematic for proper placement.
1 Compositor .01 micro farad, C1
1 LED 1-3 volt, small red ones. Remember the longer leg is the positive, connect properly,
1 Resistor 3.3k ohm, R1, It will say it on the upper part figuring out the colors is a pain. See photo below for product ID.
1 Resistor 3.9k ohm R4
1 Resistor 4.7k ohm R5
1 Resistor 1k ohm R3 for creating a body zapper with pennies,
1 resistor for R2 see Fredbusters PDF file for specific resistor for frequency. I use variable potentiometers because I like to set exact frequencies myself. I use 100k potentiometers, they give me a range from 6hz to 460hz when adjusting. You can see in the below photo I have both the large audio and micro potentiometers. The micro is used to be set at 15hz and the Audio is for creating variable.
1 on/off switch for the battery
1 toggle switch for the switching between 15hzand variable. Thats how I like to do mine.
1 555CN timer chip, make sure its the one that can handle up to 18 volts. The CMOS 555 can only handle low voltage and is easily shorted out.
1 8 pin IC Socket, just incase you burn out your 555 you can replace it without creating another circuit.
2 9 volt battery plugs, I like 2 because it lasts longer and has more amperage. One will do fin though.
Black and Red 22 gauge connecting wire, Make sure its the one with multiple threads of copper and not a solid one. Its easier to bend and move. The solid copper connecting wire is to kinky and breaks to easily, for my taste.
1 spool of Solder, The thinner the better, for getting into tight spaces and heats up better.
1 Solder Iron, A pin point will be needed for this circuit.
1 1/8" audio phone jack, I like them because they make the box look clean and its and easy size to attach to any other devices.




First we take the PC board that was included with the Black box and break it into a size we need.
 

Next we place the 8 pin bracket in the middle.


Notice on the back how I bend over the pins to hold it in place.


Next we attach R1 3.3k resistor. One end goes to pin 8 and the other to pin 7, I bend the legs over the pin then cut off 1/4" longer than the distance to the pin. the remaining 1/4" I bent over and stick in the pin hole. see schematic.


Here is how it looks on the back.


Next we attach Compositor C2 1.0 mf, and Compositor C1 0.001 mf. C2 connects to pin 6 and the base of C1. C1 connects to pin 5 and C2 base.


Here is how it looks on the back, notice how the base of C1 and C2 are twisted together.


Next we add R4 3.9k and R5 4.7k to the board.


Notice on the back the ends are twisted together and connected to Pin 3.


Here is when I added the 555 timer, make sure the black dot is in the upper left corner.


Using one of the wire ends I cut off from the excess of the resistors I connect Pin 2 to Pin 6. like so.
 

Now is when I start adding the wires to hook up the positive and negative connections.


Back of circuit.





Now for the wires that hook up to LED, Output jack and switches.


You can see how I soldered the connections together. Make sure you are clean and accurate. Other wise a lose connection or overlapping solder will cause the circuit not to work. This takes patients and time, dont rush it. If you do overlap a connection with solder, heat it up, use another wire to suck up the excess and then use a knife to remove the last bits. I heat the wires first then add the solder. Its cleaner once you get used to soldering. Takes practice.


Here is what the final circuit looks like before its place in a box. You can see the R2 I added here. I use a toggle switch to go back and forth between the set resistor and variable resistor. One end of the resistor is connected to R1 where it attaches to pin 7. The middle Pin on the Potentiometer is then connected to a toggle switch. The Middle switch pin is then connected to C2 where it attaches to pin 6. Using potentiometers allows you to set a frequency you want. In Fredbusterstutorial he gives you the specific resistor for specific frequency.

Here are links to four photos showing detailed enlargement of the circuit with the variable potentiometers added and how they are connected. This should explain how I connected the potentiometers.

http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/frontcircuitlg.jpg
http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/backcircuitlg.jpg
http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/beforeboxback.jpg
http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/beforebox.jpg



Next I begin placing the circuit into the box. I slip the LED wires thru to the outside because thats how you hook up this specific light. I used shrink tubing to seal the connection keeping them not from touching other wires.
 

You can see how I drilled the holes to fit each switch, LED and output jack. This is how I have the circuit placed inside the box. Notice the blank area to hold the two 9 volt batteries. I prefer two 9v because it allow the Freq Gen to run longer. About 14 days nonstop at 15hz.


And finally how the frequency box looks when finished. Notice I dont have penny electrodes because this box is only to power OR devices and not kill body parasites. Copy the circuit drawing above and you can have both.

Radioshack sells a digital voltage meter which has a setting for frequencies. It cost me about $50. It works great. All I do is connect the output from the generator to the meter’s input wires. Instantly it says the exact frequency the dial is tuned too. If you don’t have voltage meter and work around the house repairing things yourself this is a must have.

To put the set the frequencies I use my computer. I use the 1/8" stereo jack into my sound card, making sure the input volume is on low. Use a Sound generator program and match the tones. Make sure the sound wave is set to square. It takes time to get it right but it works.

On a good day it takes me 1 hour and half to make the whole thing. It will cost you about $40 to 45 in parts to make one like mine.
   Sourced By: Ryan 
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Signal Generator with 555 Circuit Diagram

This is another wonderful circuit based on IC 555, although this simple signal generator is capable of generating square wave signals, sine and sawtooth, and an adjustment of the output level. This signal generator uses besides IC 555 transistor BC 547B and two and a half dozen basic components such as resistors and capacitors.

Signal Generator with 555 Circuit Diagram

Signal Generator with 555 Circuit Diagram

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Friday, September 26, 2014

Tri Waveform Generator

The Tri-Waveform Generator can be used for a number of different uses. The one that I use it for is a signal generator to test circuits. The frequency range is 20 to 20khz. and can be adjusted by R1. The duty cycle or the time that the waveform is high and the time that the waveform is low can be adjusted by R4. The purpose of R2 and R3 are to clean up any distortion on the sine wave output. To do this you must hook up the sine wave output to and oscilloscope and adjust R2 & R3 to make the sine wave as accurate as possible.

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Wednesday, September 24, 2014

High Voltage Generator Circuit Diagram

This is a short  High Voltage Generator Circuit Diagram of a high voltage generator and can be mounted in a small space and powered by rechargeable or simple batteries, the circuit generates a voltage low current but a high turn-on of about 200 to 400 V harmless to humans, of course, but is able to give a pretty nasty shock. 

 High Voltage Generator Circuit Diagram

 High Voltage Generator Circuit Diagram


Here is a project that could be useful this summer on the beach, to prevent anyone touching your things left on your beach towel while you was swimming, you can equally well use it in the office or workshop when you return to work. It operates as a low frequency oscillator, which makes it possible to convert the battery voltage into a DC voltage alternating current that can be enhanced through the transformer. 

Using a transformer with center tap as herein makes possible the construction of a Hartley oscillator transistor T1 around The output voltage can be used directly through R2 and R3 current limiting resistors, which should not in any circumstances be omitted or modified, they are what make the circuit have security. You will then get about 200 V peak-to-peak, which is already quite unpleasant to the touch. 

But you can also use a voltage doubler, shown at the bottom right of the figure, which will produce about 300 V, even more unpleasant to the touch. Here too, of course, the resistance, you know how R4 and R5, should always be present. It can be used in small electric fences, chase away animals, etc.
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Saturday, September 20, 2014

Random Number Generator Based Game

This electronic game is simulation of one-arm bandit game. Electronics hobbyists will find it very interesting. When toggle switch S1 is in ‘run’ position, all segments of 7-segment displays (DIS1 through DIS3) will light up. On turning toggle switch S1 from ‘run’ to ‘stop’ position, displayed digits will continue advancing and the final display is unpredictable. Thus the final number displayed in DIS1 through DIS3 is of random nature. The speed with which the number in 7-segment display keeps changing on flipping switch S1 from ‘run’ to ‘stop’ condition slowly decays before stopping with a random number display. To play this game, one has to obtain three identical numbers in displays DIS1 through DIS3.

The contestant would score 1 (one) point if he manages to get a final display of ‘000’, 2 points for getting ‘111’ display, 3 points for ‘222’,… and so on—up to ten points for ‘999’. He should try to score maximum possible points in fixed numbers of attempts (say, 20 to 25 attempts). Apart from using this circuit as a game for entertainment, one can use it as random number generator for any other application as well. The decay time with the given component values is around 15 seconds before the display could stop at a final random number.

Circuit diagram:Random
The circuit comprises clock oscillator built around NE555 timer IC4, three-stage clock pulse counter built using three CD4033 ICs (IC1 to IC3), and three 7-segment LED displays (DIS1 to DIS3). In clock oscillator circuit, NE555 timer IC4 is used in a similar way as a free-running astable multivibrator, the only difference being the additional capacitor C1 introduced between pin No. 7 of IC4 and junction of resistors R22 and R24. When toggle switch S1 is in ‘run’ position, both terminals of capacitor C1 are shorted by switch S1 and timer IC4 works as a free-running astable multivibrator. The operating frequency is in the vicinity of 35 kHz, determined by the value of timing components.

When toggle switch S1 is flipped from ‘run’ to ‘stop’ position, capacitor C1 is introduced in the discharge path of pin No. 7 of IC4 and junction of resistors R22 and R24. At the same time, capacitor C4 comes in parallel with timing capacitor C3 to change the operating frequency of the astable from around 35 kHz to around 65 Hz. Now capacitor C1 slowly starts charging as it is connected in the discharge path of the timing capacitors C3 and C4. The clock frequency of IC4 gradually reduces and after 15 seconds, when capacitor C1 is sufficiently charged, the oscillating frequency gradually drops and finally it stops oscillating. Thus, pin 3 of IC4 becomes low.

Second part of the circuit comprises three cascaded ICs, IC1 through IC3 (CD4033 decade upcounter cum 7-segment decoder). In conjunction with three 7-segment displays (DIS1 to DIS3), these form a 3-digit clock counter. The clock counting speed is dependant upon the clock pulse frequency of IC4. It is connected to clock input pin 1 of IC1 while chip enable pin 2 of IC1 to IC3 are held low. Thus all clock counter ICs advance by 1 for every positive clock transition. Reset pin 15 of all counter ICs is held low through resistor R25. Thus reset facility is not used in this circuit. Due to persistence of vision, one can not distinguish 0-9 counting in DIS1 to DIS3 when the clock frequency is high.

All 7-segment displays appear to show digit 8, while the red LED1 remains lit continuously, indicating clock counter is in running condition. On sliding toggle switch S1 from ‘run’ to ‘stop’ position, the counting speed of individual digits falls immediately due to the clock frequency changing to around 65 Hz. Now, the counting speed will be 65 Hz for DIS3, 6.5 Hz for DIS2, and 0.6 Hz for DIS1. This speed of individual digit counting slowly decays, until the counter stops and LED1 stops blinking, and the final count (random numbers) are displayed in DIS1, DIS2, and DIS3.
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Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Simple Capacitor Discharge High Voltage Generator Wiring diagram Schematic

Simple Capacitor Discharge High Voltage Generator Circuit Diagram Stepdown transformer T1 drops the incoming line voltage to approximately 48 Vac which is rectified by diode D1; the resultant de charges capacitor C1-through current limiting resistor Rl-to a voltage level preset by R4. When the voltage on R4`s wiper reaches about 8.6 V, Q1 begins to turn on, drawing current through R7 and the base-emitter junction of Q2. 

Q2 turns on and supplies a positive voltage to the gate of silicon-controlled rectifier Q3. The positive gate voltage causes Q3 to conduct, thereby discharging C1 through the primary winding of step-up transformer T2, which results in a high-voltage arc at output terminal X. The voltage developed at T2`s output is determined by the value of C1, the voltage across C1, and the turns ratio of transformer T2. 

The frequency or pulse rate of the high voltage is determined by the resistance of T1 `s primary and secondary windings, the value of R1, and the value of Cl. The lower the value of each item, the higher the output pulse rate; the peak output voltage will only remain unchanged if C1`s value remains unchanged.

Capacitor Discharge High Voltage Generator Circuit Diagram

Capacitor

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