Schematic Volt: frequency

Showing posts with label frequency. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

LM331 Frequency to voltage converter Diagram Circuit

Description.
LM331 is basically a precision voltage to frequency converter from National Semiconductors. The IC has a hand full of applications like analog to digital conversion, long term integration, voltage to frequency conversion, frequency to voltage conversion. Wide dynamic range and excellent linearity makes the IC well suitable for the applications mentioned above.
Here the LM331 is wired as a frequency to voltage converter which converts the input frequency into a proportional voltage which is extremely linear to the input frequency. The frequency to voltage conversion is attained by differentiating the input frequency using capacitor C3 and resistor R7 and feeding the resultant pulse train to the pin6 (threshold) of the IC. The negative going edge of the resultant pulse train at pin6 makes the built-in comparator circuit to trigger the timer circuit. At any instant, the current flowing out of the current output pin (pin 6) will be proportional to the input frequency and value of the timing components (R1 and C1). As a result a voltage (Vout) proportional to the input frequency (Fin) will be available across the load resistor R4.

Circuit diagram.

Notes.

The circuit can be assembled on a vero board.
I used 15V DC as the supply voltage (+Vs) while testing the circuit.
The LM331 can be operated from anything between 5 to 30V DC.
The value of R3 depends on the supply voltage and the equation is R3= (Vs – 2V)/ (2mA).
According to the equation, for Vs = 15V, R3=68K.
The output voltage depends on the equation, Vout = ((R4)/(R5+R6))*R1C1*2.09V*Fin.
POT R6 can be used for calibrating the circuit.

Beat frequency Oscillator Simple Metal Detector Schematic

This simple metal detector requires alone a scattering of apparatus and an evening’s work. Congenital about a cmos4011 IC, is actual able-bodied and versatile. The 250 kHz advertence oscillator is congenital with two gates (U1/1 and U1/2), C1, R1 and P1. The chase oscillator uses alone one aboideau (U1/3), two capacitors and the chase coil. The outputs of the two oscillators are fed to the fourth aboideau acting as a mixer and filtered with C4.

After assembly, affix the headphones and boring about-face P1. The angle will get lower until it disappears. Continuing to circle P1 in the aforementioned administration will account the angle to acceleration again. The point at witch the angle is the everyman and disappears is alleged “zero beat”. If you can not get this aught exhausted abundance for the absolute about-face of P1 you may accept to baddest altered ethics for C1.

Turn P1 abutting to the aught exhausted position, again move the chase braid abreast a brownish object. The accent should change, depending on the admeasurement and ambit of the metal.

Note that this simple detector’s achievement is not commensurable to added avant-garde bartering products. It will alone ascertain about ample brownish altar at a abbreviate distance. Coins and added baby altar will be abundant harder to find!

Here the Beat-frequency Oscillator Simple Metal Detector Schematic Part List :

U1: CD4011 (Quad 2-input NAND Gate)
U2: LM78L05 (5V Regulator IC)
R1: 2.2k 5% resistor
R3: 330k 5% resistor
R4: 270k 5% resistor
R5: 1k 5% resistor
C1: 390pF NPO capacitor
C2, C3: 10nF
C4: 100nF
C5: 100uF/16V electrolytic
C6: 220uF/16V electrolytic
C7: 100nF ceramic
P1: 4.7k lin. potentiometer
L1: 22cm diameter, 14 turns, AWG 26
K1: SPDT toggle switch
J1: Headphone jack 1/4 or 1/8 inch

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

How to Make a Frequency Generator

How to Make a Frequency Generator. On cloud busters Fredbuster created a wonder tutorial for getting started and building your own Zapper. Fredbusters Tutorial in PDF-Based off his design here is how I made my frequency generator.

Frequency Generator Circuit Diagram

Parts Needed

1 Project box with PC board included,

1 Compositor 1 micro farad, C2, I like the un-polarized because it allows you not to worry about positive an negative sides. If you do get one with a longer leg thats the positive, see schematic for proper placement.

1 Compositor .01 micro farad, C1

1 LED 1-3 volt, small red ones. Remember the longer leg is the positive, connect properly,

1 Resistor 3.3k ohm, R1, It will say it on the upper part figuring out the colors is a pain. See photo below for product ID.

1 Resistor 3.9k ohm R4

1 Resistor 4.7k ohm R5

1 Resistor 1k ohm R3 for creating a body zapper with pennies,

1 resistor for R2 see Fredbusters PDF file for specific resistor for frequency. I use variable potentiometers because I like to set exact frequencies myself. I use 100k potentiometers, they give me a range from 6hz to 460hz when adjusting. You can see in the below photo I have both the large audio and micro potentiometers. The micro is used to be set at 15hz and the Audio is for creating variable.

1 on/off switch for the battery

1 toggle switch for the switching between 15hzand variable. Thats how I like to do mine.

1 555CN timer chip, make sure its the one that can handle up to 18 volts. The CMOS 555 can only handle low voltage and is easily shorted out.

1 8 pin IC Socket, just incase you burn out your 555 you can replace it without creating another circuit.

2 9 volt battery plugs, I like 2 because it lasts longer and has more amperage. One will do fin though.

Black and Red 22 gauge connecting wire, Make sure its the one with multiple threads of copper and not a solid one. Its easier to bend and move. The solid copper connecting wire is to kinky and breaks to easily, for my taste.

1 spool of Solder, The thinner the better, for getting into tight spaces and heats up better.

1 Solder Iron, A pin point will be needed for this circuit.

1 1/8" audio phone jack, I like them because they make the box look clean and its and easy size to attach to any other devices.

First we take the PC board that was included with the Black box and break it into a size we need.

Next we place the 8 pin bracket in the middle.

Notice on the back how I bend over the pins to hold it in place.

Next we attach R1 3.3k resistor. One end goes to pin 8 and the other to pin 7, I bend the legs over the pin then cut off 1/4" longer than the distance to the pin. the remaining 1/4" I bent over and stick in the pin hole. see schematic.

Here is how it looks on the back.

Next we attach Compositor C2 1.0 mf, and Compositor C1 0.001 mf. C2 connects to pin 6 and the base of C1. C1 connects to pin 5 and C2 base.

Here is how it looks on the back, notice how the base of C1 and C2 are twisted together.

Next we add R4 3.9k and R5 4.7k to the board.

Notice on the back the ends are twisted together and connected to Pin 3.

Here is when I added the 555 timer, make sure the black dot is in the upper left corner.

Using one of the wire ends I cut off from the excess of the resistors I connect Pin 2 to Pin 6. like so.

Now is when I start adding the wires to hook up the positive and negative connections.

Back of circuit.

Now for the wires that hook up to LED, Output jack and switches.

You can see how I soldered the connections together. Make sure you are clean and accurate. Other wise a lose connection or overlapping solder will cause the circuit not to work. This takes patients and time, dont rush it. If you do overlap a connection with solder, heat it up, use another wire to suck up the excess and then use a knife to remove the last bits. I heat the wires first then add the solder. Its cleaner once you get used to soldering. Takes practice.

Here is what the final circuit looks like before its place in a box. You can see the R2 I added here. I use a toggle switch to go back and forth between the set resistor and variable resistor. One end of the resistor is connected to R1 where it attaches to pin 7. The middle Pin on the Potentiometer is then connected to a toggle switch. The Middle switch pin is then connected to C2 where it attaches to pin 6. Using potentiometers allows you to set a frequency you want. In Fredbusterstutorial he gives you the specific resistor for specific frequency.

Here are links to four photos showing detailed enlargement of the circuit with the variable potentiometers added and how they are connected. This should explain how I connected the potentiometers.

http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/frontcircuitlg.jpg

http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/backcircuitlg.jpg

http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/beforeboxback.jpg

http://www.ryanmcginty.com/orgone/beforebox.jpg

Next I begin placing the circuit into the box. I slip the LED wires thru to the outside because thats how you hook up this specific light. I used shrink tubing to seal the connection keeping them not from touching other wires.

You can see how I drilled the holes to fit each switch, LED and output jack. This is how I have the circuit placed inside the box. Notice the blank area to hold the two 9 volt batteries. I prefer two 9v because it allow the Freq Gen to run longer. About 14 days nonstop at 15hz.

And finally how the frequency box looks when finished. Notice I dont have penny electrodes because this box is only to power OR devices and not kill body parasites. Copy the circuit drawing above and you can have both.

Radioshack sells a digital voltage meter which has a setting for frequencies. It cost me about $50. It works great. All I do is connect the output from the generator to the meter’s input wires. Instantly it says the exact frequency the dial is tuned too. If you don’t have voltage meter and work around the house repairing things yourself this is a must have.

To put the set the frequencies I use my computer. I use the 1/8" stereo jack into my sound card, making sure the input volume is on low. Use a Sound generator program and match the tones. Make sure the sound wave is set to square. It takes time to get it right but it works.

On a good day it takes me 1 hour and half to make the whole thing. It will cost you about $40 to 45 in parts to make one like mine.

Sourced By: Ryan

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Light to Frequency converter circuit

The circuit is based on TLC555, the CMOS version of famous timer IC NE 555. A photo diode is used for sensing the light intensity.The timer IC is wired in astable mode.The leakage current of the reverse biased photo diode is proportional to the light intensity falling on it.This leakage current charges the capacitance C1.When the capacitor voltage reaches 2/3 of the supply voltage the out put (pin 3) goes low.As a result the capacitor discharges through photo diode .When the capacitor voltage reaches 1/3 the supply voltage the out put (pin 3) of IC goes high.This cycling continues and we get a frequency at pin 3 proportional to the light intensity falling on the photo diode.

Light to Frequency Converter Circuit Diagram & Parts List.

Light to Frequency Converter Circuit Diagram

Notes.

With the given components the frequency varies from 1KHZ @ complete darkness to 24 Khz @ bright sunlight.The frequency range can be changed by using different values for C1.
Use any general purpose photo diode for D1.

Thursday, October 2, 2014

Modular Preamplifier Tone Control Bass and Treble Controls

Circuit diagram

Parts:

P1,P2___________10K Linear Potentiometers
 (twin concentric-spindle dual gang for stereo)

R1_____________100K 1/4W Resistor
R2,R6___________18K 1/4W Resistors
R3_______________3K3 1/4W Resistor (18K for shelving curves: see Notes)
R4,R5____________1K8 1/4W Resistors (10K for shelving curves: see Notes)
R7_____________560R 1/4W Resistor

C1_______________1µF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2_______________4n7 63V Polyester Capacitor (3n3 for shelving curves: see Notes)
C3_______________1µ5 63V Polyester Capacitor (100nF for shelving curves: see Notes)
C4,C7__________100nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
C5,C8___________22µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C6,C9_________2200µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors

IC1___________TL072 Dual BIFET Op-Amp
IC2___________78L15 15V 100mA Positive Regulator IC
IC3___________79L15 15V 100mA Negative Regulator IC

D1,D2________1N4002 200V 1A Diodes

SW1____________DPST Toggle Switch

J1,J2__________RCA audio input sockets
J3_____________Mini DC Power Socket

Comments:

Needing a Tone Control, this module can be inserted in the chain between the Control Center and the Power Amplifier.
The circuit is based on an original design of Reg Williamson, published on Electronics World + Wireless World, Circuit Ideas, January 1991.

This tone control circuit will take the form of either the traditional bass and treble adjustment or the shelving type, which is similar to a "tilt" control but with independent bass and treble.
Asymptotic slopes for both are about 4dB/octave, but begin to flatten out at 100Hz and 10kHz, reaching a maximum of ±15dB at the ends of the audio band.
Component values in parenthesis are those for the shelving type of control. In this case, the shelf begins at about 250Hz and 4kHz, flattening to a ±6dB maximum an octave above or below; the central point is 1kHz.
Reactive elements for the low end include a generalized impedance converter, which simulates an inductor in series with a resistor (gyrator).

When set to the electrical centers of their respective controls, the reactive elements of the equalizers are virtually out of circuit. With these settings, the circuit behaves as a unity gain amplifier with 100% negative feedback. Even so, reactive elements can be switched out altogether with a DPST on/off switch.

As with the other modules of this series, each electronic board can be fitted into a standard enclosure: Hammond extruded aluminum cases are well suited to host the boards of this preamp. In particular, the cases sized 16 x 10.3 x 5.3 cm or 22 x 10.3 x 5.3 cm have a very good look when stacked. See below an example of the possible arrangement of the front and rear panels of this module.

Notes:

To build the shelving type of control, use the values shown in parenthesis for R3, R4, R5, C2 and C3
The circuit diagram shows the Left channel only and the power supply.
Some parts are in common to both channels and must not be doubled. These parts are: P1 and P2 (if twin concentric-spindle dual gang potentiometers are used), IC2, IC3, C4, C5, C6, C7, C8, C9, D1, D2 and J3.
This module requires an external 15 - 18V ac (50mA minimum) Power Supply Adaptor.

Technical data:

Input sensitivity:: 1V RMS for 1V RMS output
Maximum output voltage:: 9.5V RMS into 10K load
Frequency response:: flat from 20Hz to 23KHz
Total harmonic distortion @ 1.5V RMS output:: 100Hz = 0.004% 1KHz = 0.004% 10KHz = 0.002%
Total harmonic distortion @ 6V RMS output:: 100Hz = 0.003% 1KHz = 0.003% 10KHz = 0.03%; More Detail you can see at http://redcircuits.com/Page152.htm

Monday, August 18, 2014

Temperature To Frequency Converter Wiring diagram Schematic

This is a simple Temperature To Frequency Converter Circuit Diagram. enables the schema to be used as a reliable temperature-to- frequency converter; in combination with the fixed reference output of 1.00 V, offset scales. This In this schema an LM34 or LM35 produces a frequency proportional to temperature. Reference current (138 ) is set via R3. The output can be used to drive a display, frequency counter, or other indicating device for temperature readout.

Temperature To Frequency Converter Circuit Diagram